Undoubtedly Delighted in Doubtful
Back in January, after just over 3 months with Bethell, we were…blessed…with a visit from Kelsey’s mother and step-father; while our experience traveling through NZ in the campervan was spectacular for many reasons, we certainly anticipated enjoying the more traditional bed and diet offered by the accommodation we would be sharing with them. Perhaps it was our recently adjusted perspective, but what we couldn’t have anticipated was just how rejuvenating a little taste of luxury can be. Mind you, this wasn’t overly opulent luxury, like the kind you might find at a Jumeirah property in Dubai. But it was just the right amount – the New Zealand kind.
Just 5 kilometers from the center of Te Anau, Fiordland Lodge, with its strikingly open architecture, is nonetheless a cozy, welcoming refuge from the ever-changing weather of the Fiordlands region. With room for a maximum of 29 guests across nine lodge rooms, one executive suite and two exclusive log cabins, relaxing tranquility with a good view is not difficult to acquire. Only 15 years old, its sturdy, timber construction provides a sense of warmth and rugged comfort that is only enhanced by its massive open fireplace with a locally-sourced stone façade.
Finding a restful seat in the lounge area – a great spot for after dinner conversation, by the way – guests are naturally encouraged by the massive floor to ceiling windows to gaze upon Lake Te Anau, surrounded by waterside mountains, recurrent rainbows, and plenty of windswept tussock. It is easy to (literally) see why Fiordland Lodge is the perfect base from which to explore the Doubtful, Dusky, and Milford Sounds and all the natural beauty they offer. If you can pull yourself away from the coziness, you’ll be rewarded with phenomenal fly fishing, tramping, and other excursions through the area. In fact, Fiordland offers several activity packages for guests to take advantage of, and is also the only Orvis endorsed lodge in Australasia.
Of course, should the ‘passing’ shower keep you inside, you’d be equally rewarded by Fiordland’s amazingly warm hospitality. Featuring a naturally amicable staff devoid of any forced pretense and a ‘complimentary’ cocktail with pre-dinner canapés, the dining experience alone is enough to amaze the weary, nomadic camper. The daily changing menu creates a dining experience that is not only unique to the area by sourcing from local suppliers, but also incredibly satisfying as it focuses on simple, fresh, and seasonal dishes.
We are, however, here to explore, and so it must also be with our visitors. Thus, after an indulgent evening, the four of us (along with six other travelers) ventured a couple dozen kilometers south to the town of Manapouri, crossed the lake with which it shares a name, were driven across the Wilmot Pass, and eventually made it into Doubtful Sound to meet our overnight cruise on the Southern Secret. Yes, indeed there were many small transfers just to reach the sound and we certainly did feel the ‘tourist vibe’ alongside several larger groups on our way. But once there, we were undoubtedly delighted by the uncrowded and quiet personality of Doubtful Sound.
Our two-person crew aboard the Southern Secret was beyond impressive, creating a vibe that was truly professional, but exceptionally approachable. Jason was a great captain who welcomed you into the wheel house for a chat, and Kirsten was both a whiz in the kitchen and a gracious performer, sharing with us her classical piano talents as we gently floated through dessert and glasses of local sauvignon blanc. Before that, however, we began the cruise with a freshly-caught crayfish lunch, and finished out the day with almost effortless fishing, sea kayaking, and endless views of waterfalls cascading down green and grey mountainsides. It’s as if the sound was quietly alive, its waterfall veins helping circulate its aquatic blood between sky and sea level.
Looking back, had we decided to explore the sounds with Bethell in December (the realities of weather, timing, and budget carried us straight from Southland to Queenstown), we might have been less enthralled. For one, it’s doubtful that we would have gotten into the sound (oooh, clever wordplay!). Getting to witness the juxtaposed enormity and tranquility of Fiordland by exploring Doubtful Sound was one of those experiences that makes you feel insignificant, and somehow, simultaneously relaxed. What made it even better though, was getting to share the experience with loved ones, not only in that moment, but forever into the future. I’m glad we did it the way we did, and am grateful to those that shared it with us.