Take me to "Ch'ch" — novaturient(s)

Using the word “regrets” is probably a bit too strong, but I’m confident saying that we’ve all experienced small moments or decisions in our lives that we would, at the very least, improve upon if given the chance. One of mine would be taking more time to explore Christchurch on a hurried road trip I took when I was 20 years old. At the time it was New Zealand’s second largest city, population-wise. Instead of falling into the overpriced and tawdry tourist trap known as the International Antarctic Center, I would have ventured into the center of “the Garden City” and absorbed it in all its English-imitating greatness. Not necessarily as an admirer of British culture or architecture, but to have a more robust memory (really just any memory) to which I could compare the time spent during Kelsey’s and my first weekend out of Kaikoura in early December.

As I’m sure you know, Christchurch has been rattled by its own earthquakes in recent history. The first in 2010, a magnitude 7.1 known as the Canterbury earthquake, did well to weaken buildings and infrastructure within and around the city. Come February 22, 2011, when another quake, this time a magnitude 6.3, struck just 6 miles from the city center during the lunch hour, not only were the already compromised buildings subject to permanent damage (like the original Christchurch Cathedral on Cathedral Square, below), but people’s lives were taken from them in a matter of seconds. One-hundred and eighty-five individuals died in the 2011 earthquake, making it New Zealand’s third deadliest natural disaster.

Since then – just over 5 years now – “Ch’ch” as it’s referred to locally is still rebuilding, physically and otherwise. Everywhere you look there’s a crane, steel-reinforced framing against stone or brick buildings, traffic cones, construction fencing, and a populace where half the citizenry seems to belong to a club that distinguishes itself from others with a bright orange or neon yellow vest. What’s most striking, however, is the broader incongruent triad of progress all of these things represent: pieces of the city are either rebuilt, rebuilding, or relinquished. Seeing this disparity in the physical recovery across the city might leave you thinking that the Canterbury earthquakes happened just last year. For me, though, seeing the gap in progress left me with the impression that Christchurch is not only a city in the midst of a rebuild, but an ostensibly conflicted redefinition.

At once it felt almost…‘Soviet,’ with its decrepit concrete walls against a lingering gray sky. At the very least it screamed old-fashioned and traditional in the collective sense. But it also felt like a refuge for individualism, with numerous art installations spread throughout its streets, each one dealing with the grief in its own way. There are sculptures and murals created amid abandoned structures, poems printed on the light posts and fences of Victoria Street, and mixed media installations sharing space in the Re:START Mall – itself an artistically yet practically constructed collection of retail businesses keeping calm and carrying on despite the circumstances.

While these examples each possessed their own gravitas, the most impactful display was by far “185 Chairs” at the corner of Madras and Cashel Streets. From a distance, or at least from across the street, it’s easy for the ignorant tourist to mistake the well-organized rows of all-white chairs for a makeshift worship space. Not only had I quickly come to anticipate a makeshift quality from the city, but this particular installation sits just next to a sign for St Paul’s Trinity Pacific Presbyterian Church. As Kelsey and I crossed over Madras St., I quickly realized the juxtaposition was a simple coincidence. The collection is very much an intentional expression of emotion. Reading the accompanying list of names and their respective ages and countries, I further realized that diligent forethought was applied in choosing each chair. As the artist states, “185 chairs of all shapes and sizes symbolize those who lost their lives as a result of the Canterbury earthquake on 22 February 2011. The individuality of each chair pays tribute to the uniqueness of each person represented.” If upon noticing the names of children only 8 months, 5 months, and 5 days of age doesn’t leave you teary-eyed, then noticing the playroom chair, highchair, and nursery basket will likely drive the point home for you. Simply put, spending just a few minutes here will make even the hardest of hearts contemplate how fragile and precious human life is. The installation also includes various written expressions, poems you might say, on the topic of loss and grief. Although there are plenty of newly reconstructed buildings and well-performing businesses, the corner of Madras & Cashel is evidence that Christchurch is not only still rebuilding, but still expressively and creatively grieving along the way.

As it rebuilds and grieves, Christchurch is also redefining itself structurally; it has no other responsible choice. Many of its older, English-styled buildings are getting makeovers – it’s understandable that people want to maintain their cultural identity and connection to their roots. But where there isn’t a chance to ‘maintain’ via patch work, people are resourcefully recreating a city of shipping crate store fronts. Again, there’s an entire mall of them collectively known as the Re:START Mall . If you’re finding it difficult to imagine, don’t worry, we took a few pictures:

If you're curious enough to wander off Cashel or Lichfield streets between Durham and Colombo, you'll be rewarded by the unique & distinctive Re:START Mall.

One of Christchurch’s other remarkable constructions happens to be one of its most popular tourist attractions in its post-quake era – the “Cardboard Cathedral.” More officially known as the Christchurch Transitional Cathedral, it is the world’s only cathedral made predominantly of cardboard. It was designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, opened in July of 2013, and cost only $5 million (NZD) to construct. Walking into the cardboard cathedral, observing the towering ceiling and listening to the choir practicing for an evening holiday performance, I found myself very much appreciating people of faith. While I myself have departed significantly from the extensive dogma of the Catholic tradition in which I was raised, I greatly value the fact that people can find in religion, a healthy way to deal with life and its challenges. Apart from a routine worship schedule, churches, synagogues, and mosques can and do foster a sense of community and social connection – a key factor in resilience, by the way. After taking a few pictures and lighting a votive candle for all of Patty’s intentions (my mother - she would have done the same for us), we exited and carried on with our walking tour of the city center.

Looking back on the weekend in Ch’ch, I can’t help but think that it’s perhaps two cities sharing the same space, existing with one personality while simultaneously retaining its exact opposite: it is beautiful, yet broken; old and established, yet new and evolving. It is both confusing to observe and itself superficially confused. It has driven away inhabitants choosing to begin fresh elsewhere, but has welcomed and rewarded those willing to give it another chance. Perhaps fittingly, while I perceive it as two cities carrying on alongside each other, at the same time I also can’t help but to think it will be a city ultimately united as one by its most palpable personality trait. As it struggles to either choose between divergent identities or permit multiple ones to exist harmoniously, Christchurch has been and always will be a city of faith.

Personally, I hope to return to Christchurch – again. Who knows? Perhaps there will be an employment option involved and a longer term stay (we're still looking). Regardless of the eventual reason, it’s good to finally have a context to which I can compare the city's inevitable progress. Christchurch will rebuild, it will redefine. It will certainly change as time goes on, though it will be interesting to see how and how much. As a future visit or stay will answer such questions, one thing goes without questioning – Christchurch’s faith has remained intact, and Christchurch’s faith will see it through.